The Island of Light

I, Luna, want to tell you about an island where the light arrives first.

I know it well. It sits in the Mediterranean. A place where the sun beats down so hard that everything turns white. The sky loses its color. The ground is hot and sandy. All you can hear is the rhythm of the sea.

I remember the day a craftswoman came there with notebooks and fabrics. She sat under that fierce light and began to draw. Shapes that appeared and vanished. Silhouettes that shifted in the heat.

I watched her work like that for years. First in London, then in Madrid. Always chasing the moment when ideas arrive on their own.

The garments she imagines carry something of that island. The white light, the warmth, the shadows. She makes them slowly, with materials she knows, with artisans she trusts. Each one is unique.

I have seen those garments travel until they reach the hands of their future owners, who wait for them every year. They understand that some things need their time.

She returns to that island whenever she begins a new collection. She sits under the sun and waits. The shapes come on their own. Blurry at first, then clearer.

Like me, appearing each night above that island, lighting the footprints in the sand that tell of someone who was there before.

Process

The brand behind our Collaboration 58 was founded in London in 2019, when Tíscar Espadas — a designer from Úbeda, Jaén (Spain) — completed her master’s degree at the Royal College of Art on a Burberry scholarship. Her final project, Chapter I, became her first collection.

Trained in fashion design in Madrid (IED) with a specialization in menswear tailoring, Tíscar worked at several fashion houses in Madrid and at Henrik Vibskov’s studio in Copenhagen before launching her own label. In 2022, she moved back to Madrid, where she now works from her studio in the Quintana neighborhood.

“Each collection is a vessel for the moments and experiences that surround us while we’re creating it,” she has said in interviews. “We are what we make, and we make what we are. I can’t separate my work from my life.”

Her collections are called Chapters because each one builds on and complements the last, forming a continuity where pieces can be mixed and matched across them.

The process always begins with drawing. “The freedom and speed of an unconscious stroke generate shapes, volumes, and details that I then develop in 3D and model with fabric,” she has shared. “Drawing brings an expressive immediacy — a far more visceral, intuitive, and direct search — that later has to be refined by reason. If you can draw it, you can sew it!”

She works with natural materials: organic cotton, undyed merino wool, German hemp, wool and linen from the UK, and Italian and Japanese fabrics. “I’d love for everything to be fully traceable, and to work with people who share these values,” she explains. “Part of our role is also to communicate the process and help people appreciate that traceability.”

The garments are handmade in workshops across Spain, in limited runs. “I think it’s important to give weight to the wait — to allow each step the time it needs,” she says. “That’s why I only present one collection a year. Every creator is someone waiting for a encounter to happen, and certain stretches of time must pass between the first sketch and the prototype.”

Every piece is unique. The pattern constructs the garment and, with it, the silhouette of the person who wears it. “These are handcrafted pieces where care, exclusivity, and precision define every step,” she has said. She collaborates with artisans such as Carmen Peraita for knitwear and ceramicists like Carla Souto and Ángela González for accessories.

Tíscar creates garments that go beyond trends. “I make clothes that are a language, designed for a certain kind of person, in limited editions,” she has said. “I’m far more interested in creating pieces meant to endure than in making clothes that masses of people will wear.”

Her primary market is Japan, where each collection is shown first. “The brand is well established there — they believed in our work unconditionally from the very start,” she says. “In Japan, there’s real anticipation for every collection, and they deeply value our commitment to quality, our aesthetic sensibility, and our meticulous finishing.”

Tíscar Espadas is a multidisciplinary label. Her Chapters are accompanied by illustrations she draws herself, books documenting the process, editorial photography, and audiovisual work that round out each story. “I treat fashion as a language,” she has shared. “The aim is to create characters that speak to a concept or a set of feelings. The final story comes together with the music, the model, the way they walk, the location, the collaborations.”

Chapter VII draws inspiration from a Mediterranean island and the bright southern light. The garments stay true to the brand’s philosophy: one-of-a-kind pieces, handcrafted from traceable materials through a slow, intentional process.

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